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REHYDRATION THERAPY

Dehydration is a secondary symptom, but it is usually what kills and kills rapidly. It can take 8-72 hours.

In the first stage the animal quits eating and drinking, and starts to dehydrate. They may get up when the tank is disturbed and check things out, but may not quite be their active chipper self. It may not be apparent. The cause of them stopping to eat and drink can be just about anything, start of upper respiratory or a minor stroke or breaking a paw or coming out the worst in a fight that barely ruffled fur.

Second stage, the animal will look and rouse but not leave the nest. They check you out, go back to bed. Doesn't look unusual. If you pick up animal at this time you would notice they are feeling a little lighter, and perhaps cooler.

Third stage, animal is found not responding or if they do move, wobbly at best. Walk sort of drunkenly. Stomach is sunken. They are very light. They are cold to the touch. Sometimes they may seem all the way gone, and just a certain amount of suppleness and flexibility to the limbs means they're still alive (you can't tell they are breathing [!] )

Causes can be many, the therapy should be started immediately and kept up until the animal fully responds and recovers. If caught in stage one, supervision and a few rounds with the evil eyedropper will do. If stage two, eyedropper and animal should recover if you keep at it. Stage three, you have less than an even chance but I have brought back animals that seemed DEAD and they made a full recovery.

Half light cornsyrup and half water; or 1/8 cup sugar to 1 cup water (koolaid sweet)[or a 1:8 ratio for metric]; KMR (kitten milk replacer); pedialyte (only for diahrrea too). You can use a soda bottle lid to mix the cornsyrup and water, use room temperature or a little warmer water. An eydropper or needle-less syringe, a roll of tp or some paper towels, a gooseneck or swing arm light, a plastic shoebox or storage container.
You need to get energy into the animal, fluids, and warm them up. I prefer to start with the cornsyrup and water. Switching later to alternating with KMR. You start EVERY TEN MINUTES. If you get response and the animal is steadily improving between feedings, then increase in five minute increments to finally once an hour (mostly a check by you). I have done ten minute spacing for more than twelve running hours to bring an animal around.
Hold the animal stomach down. Never feed it anything with it on it's back. Ever. It can aspirate (inhale) the liquid and choke then. I hold them at 60 degrees above horizontal, under a good light so I can see what I'm doing. With a glass eyedropper, pull a few drops of the liquid and insert the eyedropper tip from the side, just behind the front teeth. Deliver a very small amount, do not flood the mouth. Err on too little. If the animal does not swallow, take your fingertip and stroke the throat from chin to chest a few times gently, to stimulate and encourage swallowing. If they do, give them a little more. For a young pup (under 4 months) at least one full drop; for anything older, at least 2 drops.

Swaddle loosely in some white unscented TP and put in the shoebox with the light 3 to 4 inches (8-10cm) away (if they are not at all responsive, found cold and curled up or cold and sprawled) or return to their cage or tank if they are moving but not doing well (wobbly and cold) and rig a warm corner then. Leave their cagemates with them unless those other(s) are doing things like digging under the ill one. Rehang the waterbottle low and next to the nest to make it easy for the ill one to reach it and drink. How To Rig A WARM CORNER

 
 


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